Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Link Bracelets

The feel of a nice link bracelet is great. It's a little chain on the wrist, jingling, flashing and imbuing just the right amount of magical powers to the wearer. These bracelets do just that. Here's how they were made.

The bracelets start out as a plan. These pieces require a lot of steps and many parts, so a basic plan of how they will come together is a good thing.

The layout of the bracelet links is drawn in the computer first.

Transferring the drawings from the computer speeds up the process as multiples can be made more quickly.

Each link is roughly cut out with this table top shear.



The computer transfer also serves as the guide for the hand engraving. Each heart or flower is cut engraved in the sterling silver sheet with a small steel graver.



Wire will be used to make small frames for each link. Here the wire is being "drawn" down by pulling through a steel draw plate. The plate has holes drilled in it that step down in diameter, by pulling the wire through a series of these holes, it is squished down into thinner wire.



Steel pliers are used to form the silver wire into the frames for each link.

In order to speed things up, all the components are created at the same time. The bracelets are created through a series of steps. It's a whole process.

Before the frames can be soldered onto each link they must be soldered closed. In this picture each of the frames must wait there turn as only one can be soldered at a time.
This is little insider trick. Before the frames are soldered onto the engraved pieces, a little bit of correction fluid (like whiteout) is painted on the engravings. This will keep the solder from flowing and filling in the engravings.

One by one the each of the frames is soldered onto the engraved components.

Any excess metal is removed using a jewelers saw.

Now we're getting somewhere.

The bracelets will have a great deal of texture on them. Each one of the frames is lightly hammered in order to flatten the round frames ever so slightly as well as imprint added texture onto each piece.

The pieces are drilled where they will connect to the other bracelet components.

Cutting with a jewelers saw leaves a rough edge that need to be smoothed out. Each piece is clamped in a wooded ring clamp which firmly holds the piece in place so that it can be filled.

Here a steel file is used in order to knock off any rough edges.

Now that all of the engraved pieces are pretty much finished, it's time to make the smaller links that will go in between those components. Here wire has been cut to equal lengths. This wire will be melted into small beads. Since each one of the wires is basically the same size, the beads they make will also be uniform in size.

Each wire length is heated until it melts and forms a small bead.

All of the beads are "squished with a large steel hammer.

Small grooves are then cut on both sides of all the beads. These grooves will help hold the soon to be attached jump rings in place.

Wire will be used to make jump ring to just the right shape and size.

Very fine steel rounding pliers are used to form coils. The coils are then cut down a seam creating a bunch of jump rings.
Steel tweezers are used to hold each ring in place as it is soldered to it's bead.

The components are mostly done and now it's starting to look like a bracelet.

Pliers are used to connect all of the links.



One of the final components it the clasp that will hold the bracelets together. Here steel round nose pliers are used to bend a length of sterling silver wire into a shepherd's hook clasp.

It's now time to solder all the links closed. Many very small pieces of solder will be needed to do the job. This picture shows just how small they are.

Boric acid and flux coat the entire piece. The serve to protect the silver as well as allow the solder to flow once the piece has reached a high enough temperature.

One by one, all of the connections are soldered closed. Soldering all the links closed adds a lot of work to each piece, but it also adds a great deal of strength to the chain, ensuring that it will hold up better over time.

After the bracelets are assembled it's time to create the final finish. A darkening solution is mixed up and the bracelets soak in this solution until the become completely darkened.

This is how the bracelets look once the darkening process has been completed.

The final finish is imparted using a small steel wire brush. This gives the silver a nice shine and really highlights all the beautiful texture that has been imprinted during the creation of these pieces.

Shazam!








Not the best wrist model but you get the picture. :)

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